Thursday, 6 December 2012

12 Simple Ways To Get Good in Digital Photography

DigitalPhotographyPrinciple.com - Mount Etna, Taormina, Sicily
© Digital Photography Principle - Mount Etna, Taormina, Sicily

Know your camera

You have to know your camera inside out, you don’t have to take it apart, you just need to read your user manual - a few times. You will be surprised at how easy you understand a feature you couldn’t understand on your first reading at later readings.

Have your camera with you at all TIMES

A good photo opportunity is never announced, you never know when one will come up, so have your camera with you at all times. If your DSLR is too cumbersome, get a back-up compact.

Give your Camera time to focus

Digital cameras need time to properly focus and get the right exposure. It can take a fraction of a second or a couple of seconds. Take this into consideration when taking pictures.

Get as close to the subject as you can

Using the camera’s zoom feature makes the picture grainier. Get as close to the subject as possible.

Take pictures with the light shining on the subject

This sounds obvious, but it is a mistake many beginners make. Taking pictures against the light is why you get the features of the subject dark and the background too bright. An awareness of this will most times, make a better angle for your picture obvious.

Go easy on the flash

Natural light gives the best pictures, so use it as much as possible. Flash tends to make images look harsh.

Take lots and lots of pictures

Getting the perfect shot at the first try is almost impossible, so take many pictures. With digital photography, this doesn’t cost you extra. Try different angles and compositions.

Use the Rule of Third

Don’t put your subject dead centre. Use the rule of third. The rule is a compositional rule of thumb in photography. It states that an image should be imagined as divided into nine equal parts by two equally-spaced horizontal lines and two equally-spaced vertical lines, and that your subject should be placed along these lines or their intersections. Learn the rule of thirds in composition, and you’ll have more interesting pictures.

Check the horizon

When taking pictures with the horizon showing, make sure it’s level.

Select a High-resolution setting

Most cameras allow you to select different resolutions. Don’t choose a low resolution just to save on memory space. Buy the most memory your camera can handle and get some spare ones and always take your pictures in high resolution.

Don’t include too much in the scene

Don’t try to include too many things in one picture, such as people and scenery. A picture is more effective when it’s focused on a single subject.

Use a Tripod

Tripods allow you to take the sharpest pictures even in low light. Use one as often as possible.

Remembering all these might seem over-whelming, but with practice, these will become second nature.


Repetition The Key to Perfection




We don’t have to take pictures outside to get familiar with our camera! The beauty of the digital camera is that we can immediately delete what we don’t need. An exercise to get familiar with the different setting on a camera is to take an object in our environment or house and take photographs of it using  different settings and then compare it, over and over and over. How will this work?

To understand exposure

Forget about the interaction between aperture, shutter speed and ISO for now. Take a day, and say today we choose to play with the ISO setting. We will make the ISO setting priority on our camera (if there is that option), meaning we take the camera off auto. We will pick an object in our environment, a picture, a mug, anything, start with your lowest ISO setting (e.g. 100) take a picture of the object, then set your camera to the highest possible ISO setting (e.g 1600) take another picture of the object. compare the two pictures; next take a picture of your object with the next higher ISO setting from the previous (200 in this case), then take another picture with the next lower from the highest you used previously (in this case 800). Make sure you label all the pictures so you can compare them on the computer. Some cameras (especially compacts) don’t have an ISO setting you can change, they will normally have an Exposure Value (EV) setting, usually from -2 to +2, each value in this case is equivalent to one ISO adjustment.
The whole idea is for you to see and understand the effect of that particular setting (ISO in this case) on a photograph, while keeping other settings like aperture, shutter speed, subject and ambient light constant. The next day you do the same exercise for aperture, and the day after that you do the same for shutter speed, then the day after that you combine ISO and aperture (highest aperture/lowest ISO, lowest aperture/highest ISO), and so on
This “getting familiar with the camera” exercise is applicable to a compact or DSLR camera and can be used with all the different settings of any camera, I know it is repetitous and time consuming but as they say “Repitition Is The Mother Of All Skills”, further down the line when you start getting those wow photographs you will have the satisfaction of your hard work. if something appears hard, we need to take a break, then come back and play with it some more, while remembering to be easy on ourselves, it is meant to be fun.


Digital SLR Camera Lenses


Camera lenses are manufactured in a wide variety of focal lengths and are labeled according to their focal length, usually expressed in millimeters (mm).

Prime Lens

A prime lens is a lens that has a fixed focal length, as opposed to a zoom lens (which has an adjustable focal length). A prime lens of a given focal length does not give as much option as a zoom lens that includes that focal length, but the prime lens is often of a superior optical quality (means it gives better picture quality though technology has made this minimal). It is lighter, smaller and cost less in comparison with a zoom lens. Prime lens usually have larger maximum aperture (smaller f-numbers) which allow photography in less light and a shallower depth of field. They also suffer from fewer problems related to chromatic aberrations because they have fewer moving parts.

Normal Lens

The most common lens or what is referred to as a normal focal length lens on a 35mm format is the 55mm lens. This lens is referred to as a normal focal length because it covers an angle of view which is similar to that of the human eye. These lenses have the capability of recording a very deep depth of field, with objects very close to the camera to infinity in sharp focus when your lens aperture is squeezed down to f 16 or f 22.

Wide Angle Lens (Landscape)

Shorter focal length lenses, like 24 and 28mm lenses, are known as wide angle lenses because their angle of view is wider than the human eye. These lenses are used primarily for pictorial photographs or if you are working in a confined area and can’t step back far enough to take your shot.  They are wonderful for getting close to your subject; they also allow you to fit more into the frame for compelling landscape shots.

To avoid distortion wide angle lenses should be held level and not tilted up or down. However you can create some interesting shots when you tilt a wide angle lens up or down and deliberately distort your subjects.

Telephoto Lens (Sports)

Longer focal length, the physical length of the lens is shorter than the focal length.  These lens are for taking picture of faraway subjects that might be difficult to reach, they allow you to zoom in much more than a standard lens. You will generally get 4 x magnification or more.

Telephoto lenses are sometimes broken into the further sub-types of medium telephoto: lenses covering between a 85mm to 135mm in 35mm film format, long telephoto: lenses covering between a  135mm to 300mm in 35mm film format and super telephoto: lenses covering over 300mm in 35mm film format.

You can also use telephoto lens for taking pictures of faces when you zoom in as far as you can, it flattens facial features and make people’s faces look nicer as long as their faces are clean.

Macro Lens

Macro lenses are designed for extreme close-up work, with a long barrel for close focusing. Such lenses are popular for nature shooting such as small flowers, and are one of the most common tools for macro photography. Most of these lenses can focus to infinity and tend to be quite sharp. Macro lenses of different focal lengths find different uses;

Continuously Variable Focal Length: Suitable for virtually all macro subjects;

45–65 mm: Product photography, small objects that can be approached closely without causing undesirable influence, and scenes requiring natural background perspective;

90–105 mm: Insects, flowers, and small objects from a comfortable distance;

150–200 mm: Insects and other small animals where additional working distance is required.

Depth of field is extremely small when focusing on close objects. A small aperture (high f-number) is often required to produce acceptable sharpness across a three-dimensional subject. This requires a slow shutter speed, brilliant lighting, or a high ISO.

Fish Eye Lens

A fish-eye lens is a wide-angle lens that takes in a broad, panoramic and hemispherical image. They give a unique, distorted appearance. They are often used by photographers shooting broad landscapes to suggest the curve of the Earth. The focal lengths of fish-eye lenses depend on the film format. For the popular 35 mm film format, typical focal lengths of fisheye lenses are between 8 mm and 10 mm for circular images, and 15–16 mm for full-frame images.

Optical image stabilization

Image stabilization is a technique used to reduce image blur caused by the camera not being held steady. There are two kinds of image stabilization used in DSLR cameras and their lenses

In-body image stabilization is implemented by moving the image sensor in an attempt to counteract the sensed motion of the camera. The advantage of this technique is that it works for all lenses mounted on the camera, at least if the camera electronics are aware of the lens’ focal length. This is most commonly done automatically, but some cameras allow the user to input the focal length manually for use with lenses with no electronic coupling.

In-lens image stabilization is implemented in the lens itself, and moves the lens elements in an attempt to counteract the sensed motion of the camera. The inherent advantage of this kind of image stabilization is that it steadies the viewfinder image, allowing for more accurate framing and autofocus. The disadvantage is that you have to pay the extra cost for every lens you buy for which you want image stabilization.

The effectiveness of image stabilization systems varies somewhat from implementation to implementation, but there seems to be no inherent superiority to either lens-based or sensor-based systems as far as the actual improvement in captured images.

References

http://www.typesofcameralenses.com